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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
alrite lads and lasses.,.,
id appriciate if anyone can give me any help on this.,.,

ive just got a 96 corsa 1.2 12valve. yesterday, it not runing and i checked all the belts and cranked it over by hand. it seem to be ok and didnt have any unusuall resistance and seem to have good compression.
the battery was dead and when i put the power pack on it the dash lights came on straight away even though the key wasnt in the ignition and the engine check light was flashing , when i try to start it, the engine turns over no problem but it doesnt actually start.,.,
im just wondering if this is a common problem on the corsa's and if anyone has any info on what could be the problem.,.,

The engine is an x12sz

also i have searched the internet before posting, and came up with possibily a faulty EGR valve or crank sensor, if that helps????

thanks a lot in advance!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
PS,,,
i also did the bridging the no 5 & 6 terminals on the diagnostics block beside the fusebox and counted the flashes but have no idea how to read these as follows,.,.

858585 939393 121212 858585 939393 121212 858585 939393 121212 858585... i stopped counting because it seemed to be just repeating itself,.,.
Id appreciate if anyone can help me understand these,.,.
cheers
 

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I've had a quick look on the topbuzz website and these are the faults for the codes you said.

If it is the Motronic ecu style:
85 - Injector valve 5
93 - Hall Effect Switch (HES)
12 - Initiation of diagnosis.

If it is the GM-Multec ecu style:
85 - Immobiliser
93 - Quad drive module (in ECU)
12 - Initiation of diagnosis.

The first one doesn't make sense for your car so we can safely assume it's not that.

Judging by the results of the second lot of codes I'd say you may have found your problem.
Are the key, transponder, chip and ecu all from the same car?

You may need to source all of the above from another same engined corsa to solve your problem if it is that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah all the original stuff like keys ad transponder etc, the car was running fine last week, but it started to get sluggish and later wouldnt start at all,
if it is the immobiliser the spark plugs wont fir,e am i right??
coz im thinking of taking out the sparkplugs tomorrow to see if it is firing and if it is then it cant be the immobiliser can it??
 

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I'm not 100% certain on that tbh. Maybe another one of the members may be able to help.
 

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with regards to the imobiliser it depends wot sort it is i have two on mine one cuts off the fuel pump aand the other cuts the starter motor hope that helps prob you best bet is getting vauxall to plug it in the diognostics machine then they will tell u exhactly wot the problem an no its not norm for dash lights without the key
 

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There is no 1.2 12v engine its either a 1.0 12v or 1.2 8v, the x12sz engine is a 1.2 8v

As for the problem does it sound like the car is trying to start? as in are the cylinders firing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
There is no 1.2 12v engine its either a 1.0 12v or 1.2 8v, the x12sz engine is a 1.2 8v
oh right, im just going off what i was told about it rather than fact thats why i gave the engine number but thanks a lot for clearing that up,.,.

any ideas what it would cost to have the dealer (opel in my case) hook it up to the diagnostics, keeping in mind it wont start,

also am i right in thinking that dsconnecting the battery overnight will reset the ECU,.,

excuse my ignorance lads as ive never owned an opel/vauxhall before now and thanks a lot for the help,,,..,.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As for the problem does it sound like the car is trying to start? as in are the cylinders firing?
it is turning over nicely but im not sure if the sparks are firing, im gonna go out and check that now,.,.
cheers
 

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Yep disconnecting the battery completely overnight will reset the ecu.
As for getting vauxhall to diagnose it, your talking anywhere between £40-80.
And it does exactly the same as the paperclip test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I left it in a friends garage earlier so i should have a proper readout from the diagnostics tomorrow, hopefully wont be too scary,.,.,
thanks a lot everyone!!!!!!!!!
 

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No problems, keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
alright again lads!!

just got the car back to day and the problem turned out to be the wires going to the ecu had shorted out and melted which was the reason for the red lights staying on,.,.
i did most of the rewiring tonight and hopfully should be able to get it to start soon, after doing the wiring tonight i then got a code from the car with the paperclip method. the code was an 84,
am i right in thinking that this is an "immobiliser no signal" code, if so it might be that i didnt reconnect the immob sensor around the ign switch area.,.,

i think i might have it fixed as it was giving an 85 and a 93 before, just gonna check the immobiliser later.,,.
just wann ask anyone who might know, if i replace the ECU will i need the original key from the new ECU or can i reprogram my current key to work with it?

thanks a lot lads!!!!!!
 

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Yep Laura's right. If your going to change the ecu you need to change the chip in the key, and the transponder in the ignition. All must be from the same car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thanks a lot everyone,

I finished the rewiring tonight and reconnected all the wires(had to take out nearly the whole dash to get it done, thankfully the ECU (by some miracle) was fine but all the wiring was fried.
It turned out that the immobiliser problem was due to me forgeting to reconnecting the reciever under the ign switch.,.,.,
cheers everyone!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If your going to change the ecu you need to change the chip in the key, and the transponder in the ignition.
i thought i only needed the chip from the key and the ECU??, didnt think id need anything from the ignition???
cheers!!!!!
 

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That's what I was told when I did my engine conversion a few years ago. It's only a little black box around the keyhole anyway.
 
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