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That's a very basic guide.

Op. all depends on current condition and what's wrong with it, problem area etc
 

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Best way is to use a DA polisher.
But without spending a fortune on products, it'll be very hard to get that showroom finish from your original paint.
 

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i get a good shine from mine by rinseing down the body with a jet wash then wash useing 2 bucket method (1 bucket of product and 1 of normal water) then dry useing drying towl then polish useing auto glym super resin polish and then seal useing chemical guys and that lasts a long time tbh and makes washing easyer.

also depending on the state of your paint you may need to book it in to get it done by a pro

also g3 do some good compounds i use there paint work detox when i wash my car also used the rubing compound on a few marks on my corsa so it works well
 

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Why would you use quick detailer after a proper wash?


It needs to be restored first, then protected, then quick detailer can come into effect
 

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3 options...

a) pay a good detailer (not a mere valeter) to full restore you paintwork, this could take upto 2 days of correction and a minimum of £100, and thats cheap!

2) pay a bodyshop to respray, or maybe just a blowover of the whole car to blen in all panels, time, a week or so, with 6 weeks for the paint to cure, cost, at least £200

thirdly) restore it yourself, many products will be needed, methods to be learnt and lots of patience...

first you will need to clean the paintwork, using shampoo will make it look clean, but it still wont be clean, you need to decontaminate the paintwork, good shampoo £10

car pro iron-x is a deironiser will remove , yes you guessed it, iron contamination, also known as industrial fall out £14

autosmart tardis is a tar remover and will remove tar £25

then you need a good clay bar and detailer kit, meguiars is fantastic £25

the paintwork is now clean and ready for paint correction

with a DA preferably, (£200) start with a mild cut compound, do a panel at time, work up the grades, to medium then to harsh, when done, work back down the grades, harsh, medium, mild

then a good filler polish, autoglym super resin polish hasnt really been rivaled, although dodo juice lime prime comes close

then a glaze polish, poorboys blackhole for dark cars, or poorboys white diamond for light cars

then seal it with a good sealant, chemical guys jetseal is brilliant

finish off with a good wax, whatever takes your fancy, soft wax? hard wax? natural or synthetic? color charged? liquid or paste?

hope this helps, just a basic guide
 

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Or just machine polish the car using g3 if not metallic or 3m finisher if it is, then a good polish by hand such as autoglym super resin, and save a few hundered quid by spending about 80? Even if u had to buy a polisher!
 

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I've just done this to mine.. It was originally red but when I got it the paint had faded to a kind of pinky shade lol.

What I did was wash it down with a jet hose (a thorough wash will do using no household detergents). I then used a product called T-Cut which basically removes the top layer of paint restoring it to it's original shine of red.
Then using a coloured wax to finish it of.

I've still got half the car to do so I'll take some piccys of the half I haven't done and the total finished thing once I'm done to show.
 

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Shiny, and scratch/swirl free are two very different things,

T cut will cover car in tiny surface scratches, which will
Be visible on certain colours more than others
 

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This is true.. I've also got a product of the same description called MeanMachine.. I haven't used it yet from the description on the tube it does a lot more than T-Cut as it also removes tar and ground in dirt etc. etc.
 

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tcut has magnessium in to provide the 'cut', these metal particles are nowadays too big in comparison to newer better products on the market which use friendlier yet more capable materials

theres also different types of micro abrasive cutting compounds for isolating the task

tcut is old technology for old cars with old paint, like morris minors or a ford model t
 
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