[ibysmalls]

Unfortunately I am confirming that my engine has some sort of a leak coming from the headgasket where oil is sliding out externally. In a few weeks time I am going to attempt to replace it once all parts arrive. I have not had a proper chance to go through haynes manual for the replacement yet however I have been told its not that hard to do.

It will be my first head gasket replacement and new timing belt/tentioner.

From what I have gathered it is like this:

Remove rocker cover
remove exhaust manifold,
remove timing belt cover,
remove head bolts
and take head and manifold out as one?
Keep cam shafts bolted into head, no need to remove.
replace gasket,
head on torqued up, reverse process above.

What I do not know about:

Camshaft timing, degrees of the shafts and the other bits such as Crank. I believe if I tip-ex and mark where they are originally and then put them back at the marked points - this should be ok?

Will head need to be sent for a "re-skim" or is it safe/do able to put back as is or will it be dependent upon condition of the head? I believe the head is a COSCAST.

The headgasket and new timing belt kit is to be purchased from Autovaux or is there any other place that I can get the kits from?

Last question, Whilst i'm inside the engine, anything else I need to replace or renew whilst its all opened up and any precautions I need to take before and after?

Thank you guys.

 

[taurus]

You can write pages on this - or keep it simple and then if you hit a snag holler for help. I'd do the latter, it's pretty straightforward, the main thing is to be methodical, keep all parts safe and in order, and keep the area clean.

In terms of timing, mark the timing points with paint and then set the timing to TDC. Then lock it there.

If you're doing the HG I'd recommend having the head checked at a machine shop - checking costs so little it's false economy not to. If it needs skimming then it needs skimming - and get them to check it with ultrasound whilst you're at it. Either way the cams etc need to come out. Make sure you keep everything where it belongs and in the right order.

 

[ibysmalls]

You can write pages on this - or keep it simple and then if you hit a snag holler for help. I'd do the latter, it's pretty straightforward, the main thing is to be methodical, keep all parts safe and in order, and keep the area clean.

In terms of timing, mark the timing points with paint and then set the timing to TDC. Then lock it there.

If you're doing the HG I'd recommend having the head checked at a machine shop - checking costs so little it's false economy not to. If it needs skimming then it needs skimming - and get them to check it with ultrasound whilst you're at it. Either way the cams etc need to come out. Make sure you keep everything where it belongs and in the right order.

Thanks for tips.

Headgasket and Timing belt kit is about £115 from Autovaux.

Will I need new Bolts for any parts of the replacement or can I use the original bolts?

 

[Rob]

id replace the bolts. theyre old as by now and are stretch iirc. make sure there is no oil or water in their holes either.

 

[ibysmalls]

Realistically speaking, how much would it cost me to do it all (in your view) as it may work out cheaper/less hassle to get another engine instead?

 

[Rob]

budget £200. just remember if the head face is dead, then new head.

 

[ibysmalls]

Then may as well buy a new engine?:

LINK

Probs can haggle down to £180ish and about 45 mins away from me. Could this be the better option?

 

[DanDrury]

It may be cheaper, but whats 'better' is up to you. If your in no desparate need for a car, i would fit a new HG and learn from it personally

 

[Vegas]

How do you know this engine isn't shite aswell?

 

[DanDrury]

How do you know this engine isn't shite aswell?

This was my first though, as he wants to sell it, he'll tell you everything you want to hear. Its not in a car so you cant see it running, it may be tappy and shit, or even worse?

At least you know the general condition of your c20.

 

[ibysmalls]

That's true. Both are quite correct. And tbf, I don't have access to crane anymore and I have my lightened flywheel etc on this too and it will save me taking gearbox out.

Actually may be easier to renew a headgasket on this rather than a risky engine replacement plus I do believe mine is a coscast head plus like Dan said, I'll learn.

Thanks guys.

Would it just be Head bolts that I should get new?

When replacing Timing belt is there any bolts I'd need to renew there as well or just the tentioner and pulley?

 

[DanDrury]

While the head is off would it be an idea to get it ported/polished?

Not sure how expensive it is, just thinkin it may save another strip down later on?

I would replace any seals and any bolts showing any sign of corrosion personally.

 

[Vegas]

I had this exact same situation when first fitted my xe.

I opted to buy a new head that had already had work on it, rather than pay out for head skim, and then take all apart again when wanted more power. Are you changing water pump too? Coscast head is useable is worth quote abit, as Rob says depending on the lip left, as everytime they've been skimmed the lip is reduced.
All depends on your budget and where you want to end up with this engine TBH.
Mine was new cams stem seals and valves aswell as ported and polished.

Turns out was the main block that was cracked so had to be scrapped anyway..

 

[ibysmalls]

I see. In all honesty, porting and polishing this xe sounds nice however my aim is to have a solid engine running sweet, currently not aiming for big power. Only about 160-5 which I will be happy with (trying to save up for a non vauxhaull project, a french renault 5). Regarding Marks idea about buying a head that has work done to it already is a fantastic idea and I will be keeping an eye out for any that pop up as this will save me lots of time and effort, did you buy a Brand new one or from a normal seller who done it themselves.

About the water pump, why do you mention it as in, do they become faulty easily or is it something that is worth replacing while the belt and head is apart? The cooling on the corsa is phenomenal though. Temps are never above half on digi dash.

Buying a new head is a good option but I think it will depend on the condition of the coscast when I take it out to see the lip.

Much appreciated for advice to a novice.

 

[Hardcore]

If the oil leak on the head gasket isn't enough to cause substantial oil loss or any running problems, i'd probably just live with it. Won't look great with the oil but saves a lot of time, money and annoyance.

 

[Vegas]

So you have no other issues apart from oil? How are you 100% sure it's head gasket.

Only mention pump as cheap to change and need belt off to change

 

[Sam_Sri]

If the oil leak on the head gasket isn't enough to cause substantial oil loss or any running problems, i'd probably just live with it. Won't look great with the oil but saves a lot of time, money and annoyance.

^^ this, my engines been like this for well over a year now with the same leak as you have, I'm not losing a noticeable about of oil and everything runs sweet as a nut.

 

[ibysmalls]

I don't think its causing running issues that I have (lumpy but need to investigate via opcom tonight re sensors etc) but still need to perform a compression test on all cylinders to make sure the compression is good. Also now found out that oil is also coming from where the dizzy usually is but on the later ones there is a blocking cap with a plug of some sort. I don't know the official name of it but its on the exhaust cam side. Oil is also sloooowly dripping from there too under the plug. I hope somehow its dripping onto the block but I don't think this is the case.

I'm going to tipple make sure its coming from the headgasket bit as I do believe it is as it oozes out slowly from the corner of the block on top of the gasket.

Just now developed a clicking noise on LHD wheel. Pretty annoyed as its probably other CV joint as when I drive slowly or turn it clicks as if it catches on something (sound is click click click click )

I currently am living with it but I get a bit paranoid and get twitchy (perfectionist at times), I have a gallon of oil and coolant in the boot in case oil level drops. I'm keeping an eye on the oil and it seems fine level wise and if its dropping then it isn't dramatically.

 

[ibysmalls]

EDIT: I will replace pump as per Marks advice if I take timing belt off, better safe than sorry.

I will also get the bugger cleaner up properly and take a video of it oozing out if possible tonight.

 

[taurus]

Remember that oil can seep a long way on engines - think about where the oil is inside the block compared to where the leak is. Most of the outer part of the block is coolant jacket so usually it's water you see escaping. Make sure you're not confusing oil emerging from a leak elsewhere with oil from the HG itself.