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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my car on road. Came across major problems and really scared :(

Firstly, there is a leak here: This is the headgasket? :( If so what the hell do I go from here as wehn I put my finger to remove the liquid, more oozes out which is not good?



Idle issues, I start it up and it stays on say 800 and stutters and goes back up a little, Firstly there was a vacuum leak on the brake pipe where the hose comes off it to wherever it goes ( I think the air tank vent canister or something ) so we put a screw in and blocked it off. Then a vacuum leak was on the gasket on the powercap so we made a new one to sort it, when we unplugged maf it was fine, I had another maf plugged that in and it kind of was better. I really doubt its the maf as I have a feeling I have a vacuum leak somewhere but Don't know where it is.

Another issue, I can smell a really clutchy burning rubbery smell, given me a headache and smells the whole street out. Could this be the fact that when I set off it feels like I'm in 3rd gear? I need to adjust gear linkage again.

I want to cry seriously need help.
 

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1 you need to clean it off fully and see where its from could just be rocker cover as it looks high

2 if it is headgasket leaking it could be causing your running problems

3 if the linkage isnt aligned you may be selecting 3rd and burning the clutch out
 

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Clean
Up the area properly be easier to see the leak.

Smell sounds like what Craig has said about clutch
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will do that tomorrow morning and will let you know.

I've spent 13 Hours on it today straight. Hardly had dinner. I'm messed up and paranoid and tired.

Had to weld all the exhaust pipes up and can honestly say I've done a great job. Learnt how to do it as in setting the wire speed etc. Anyway, I'm really stressed out. I hope problems will be fixed. My body hurts. And I hope I can ask your help again tomorrow morning.

I put 2 litres in F16 gearbox for oil. Is that OK ?
Secondly I have no split pin in the right shaft as there is no hole for it to go in, it is further along in the shaft. Shall I drill a hole and put a pin in myself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Have you got the bolt under the L peice in
I have just remembered I have two L pieces as Two have been joined up. The top L piece for the vacuum on brake servo pipe we put a bolt in. I need to check out if the bottom one has a bolt in or not tomorrow but I think it does.
 

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Not sure what you mean i meant the rocker cover bolt under the L peice

Think there 1.9l from empty

Catle nuts don't usally come loose you can drill it and put a split pin in or replace the cv joint
 

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your getting third, ive had this myself.

driveshaft needs a splitpin. get a new cv.

oil around that area can be head or rocker, clean it all and check.

as for air leaks, spray wd40 or carb cleaner at the joints on the inlet with the engine running. you'll hear the engine note change.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Right guys, There was another vacuum leak which I have sorted out.
Goes into gears fine now and no burning smell.
Another problem:

As coolant temperature rises, so does the revs! Keeps on slowly going higher from say like 1300 when first start to 1800. Could this be the CTS faulty and does it look like this?:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
could be as it may still think its cold if faulty
Replaced the ICV, ballache. It's better and more smoother the revs but soon its the same but revs goes up slower now. I think I have a lot of air in my brakes and so they don't work or have little braking force. Using my hand brake to slow down!

Replaced ICV,
Replaced MAF,
Going to order a new CTS.

Now though with this new ICV is hesitates to start unless I have my foot on the accelerator pedal a bit and tap it giving it rev shots then when I slowly let go it stays on.

Where do I go from here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Icv may need to be coded with ecu, was it brand new or second hand?
Its simply a two pin plug, not coded with the ECU. This is not as good as the original one in it which is made me think that the problem lies there definitely. I have been told to start it up and squash the pipe from power cap to ICV and if revs drop then the ICV is duff.

I'm also going to order a new CTS just in case as I feel it is multiple problems combined.

I also snapped the rear bleed nipple so i've ordered two new ones to replace the back two and a brake line making kit in case I do something to break the lines.

Now regarding the Idle issues it's just a matter of trial and error.
Using my hand brake as brakes but took it for a small run round the block and loving the sound!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm trying to bleed the system again since fitting the hubs back on I had to remove the front callipers which made the brake fluid reservoir empty and I should start from the rear in which case I have snapped the rear nipple :(

Plus the brake line kit I bought as the lines coming from the cylinder to the fancy T piece in the engine bay have been damaged slightly and I don't want to risk it one day by pressing brakes and bursts. I grinded about .5 mm out of a pipe when trying to make clearance for the powercap.
 

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Ditch the powercap
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Why did you take the calipers off? Lol. Made acres more work for yourself there..
lol.
For the front, was easy to remove and put back on the new conversion hubs.
I had to replace the hubs to big block ones so brakes had to come off my 1.0 ones and everything. Took me about 2 hours to rebuild both sides of the front car (suspension, hubs, brakes etc)

Just the rears are taking the piss as I have air in my system and I can't bleed them as I've snapped one nipple and don't want to risk it for the rear, I've ordered two new rear cylinders and hopefully can bleed it once they're on. I haven't stripped the rear brake drums.

EDIT: OH SHIT! I COULD HAVE DONE THE WHOLE FKIN CONVERSION WITHOUT REMOVING THEM FFS! JUST REALIZED! *******.
 
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