All Corsa Forum banner

Having read this, what could it be ?

  • New Clutch / oil leak into it ?

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • Air Flow Mass Meter

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • Coil pack

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Somethign else, e.g driving style...

    Votes: 1 33.3%
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am having some problems with my Corsa C 2001.

I have owned and been driving the car for around 2 months, commuting 50+ miles a day for work.

Since I bought it I have had: fitted 4 new tyres, had tracking done, done a full service, oil, oil filter, cabin filter, coolant flush & refill, spark plugs.

When purchased the car had a engine management light on the dash, which we thought a good service would remedy, this however didn't cure the lights.

Recently the car has also had a brand new alternator (not reconditioned) and battery, as it began to loose power, and the battery light came on, on the dash.

All of this has been fitted, by myself, with the aid of a brilliant Haynes Manual.

Apologies if this Loong, but all I can do is describe as much as possible.

REMAINING PROBLEM :

The best example is :

When approaching a round about and braking the car down to a standstill, with the clutch fully engaged change to 1st. (I have checked several times and I am not pulling away in third). I will go to pull away, and both the battery light, and the handbrake lights will come on as revs fall and the car stalls, this only happens at low speeds, not at any other gear change.

The clutch pedal also feels very, very slack, I have no service history/ old MOT's for the car, so I don't know if this is the original clutch.

also, with the car, say in 4th, with revs normal, any slight acceleration will make the gear stick pull forwards.

Having changed the battery and the alternator, this has wiped both the battery and engine management light off the dash, however the enginge management light will come back on after a while.

I have previously plugged a code reader into the car, and it has indicated air/fuel intake codes, after some searching I understand this could be the: lamba sensor (pre-cat), Air Flow Mass Meter, or Coil pack.


QUESTION :

The clutch is VERY worn on this car, However I having read some threads I feel the problem could originate, from either an oil leak( which the car has had before, around the join of the oil filter housing), into the bell housing, causing clutch slipping, or AFM or the need of a new clutch.

Sorry for the lengthiness of this, just saves endless questions,

So what could it be ?

I really don't want to have to fork out for a new clutch as the car was only £650, and a new one will be around £300 eeek.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, and I will get this short story to a publisher soon ;)

Minty
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,002 Posts
Unplug afm and go for drive. Power will be down, but should be consistent. See if problem of stalling still exists
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
885 Posts
I'm just catching up with some of these older posts, so you may be sorted by now.

Before you condemn the clutch completely, the point that you make about the gear lever moving, could well indicate worn engine/gearbox mountings, so it may pay to check them before you go much further with the project.
Not sure why your hand brake light should come 'on' as you describe, but the battery (charge warning light) is acting normally. When the voltage from the alternator falls below a useful level, the light SHOULD come 'on'.
Regards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
A binding brake perhaps?

Jack your car up one wheel at a time, get someone to press the brake and check if the wheel releases immediately after the pedal or hand brake is released.

on some cars the handbrake light comes on when the brake pads are worn, sensors on the pad will touch the disc to earth, lighting up the warning light.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top