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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have an old R plate Corsa B 1.2 8v, this has been running fine in the years that I have been running it.

Recently on a routine journey, the engine started juddering in 2nd gear and then acted as if I have stalled the car (no accelerator) but the engine was still running.

I turned the engine off and had some trouble getting it to fire back up, but eventually it did turn over and I was able to set off with no issues. This happened around about 5 weeks ago. Since then it has been juddering intermittently when setting off in first and I have had two issues with the juddering whilst actually moving, but both have been minor in relation to the first instance.

I am basically a novice when it comes to cars but wanted some advise as to what this may be caused by?

Thanks for any help!
 

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Sounds like clutch judder

When you say engine shudder do you mean whole car judder? A pretty violent shaking of everything when you pull away?

Most common cause I've seen is worn clutch friction plate, there are four springs arranged around the centre, if there's excessive play in any or all of these, you will get the symptoms you're seeing.

Other causes can be contamination of the friction plate by fluids (oil) and occasionally moisture.

R plate would be cable-type clutch wouldn't it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry yes, the whole car seems to shudder when this happens and the revs drop to around about 600-400 or so.

When I am pulling away, it seems as if I am spinning the wheels. That would be the best way to describe it. People have asked me in the recent weeks if I am but it is just the car juddering whilst pulling away.

I am not too sure, is there an easy way to check? As I say I am not really clued up on cars but thought this would be the best place to get a response.

It is quite an old car, so if this is going to be a big job there may be no point in actually getting it fixed...
 

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Go to a reliable independent and ask for a quote on having your full clutch assembly done. There are also these high street outlets who seem to specialise in clutch replacement, ask them too. I doubt it will be bank-breaking and it'll last as long again as the previous one did.

The clutch will go eventually on any car and your car's oldness is a virtue in this respect where oldness = simplicity; price-wise yours will seem like peanuts compared to some of the more modern nightmares.
 

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If it judders as you are engaging the clutch then that's clutch judder. But if it judders all the time, even when you're not touching the clutch, then that sounds more like a misfire. It's not entirely clear when it is happening. Also - a clutch problem doesn't cause problems starting.

If it's when using the clutch then as per what Colin says. The good news is that there is an inspection plate which makes clutch work simpler on those.

If it's the latter - ie a misfire - I'd begin by checking the ignition system. The R reg ones usually have a DIS (distributorless ignition system) which looks like a black ribbed box on the right hand end of the cylinder head. Those are usually pretty reliable. But check the leads and plugs - I'd replace HT leads every 50k on them anyway.

If it has a distributor type of ignition system check the lead, plus, distributor cap and rotor arm. If the internal terminals of the cap are dirty or pitted, and the rotor arm is worn, you'll get a misfire.
 

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I have the same problem but it only happens as i stop and im out of gear as if i was going to stall and then the engine fires back up like but i dont think its my dizzy or rotor arm as mine was replaced in the middle of last year but i have got the damp start that you spray all over your ht leads and dizzy and it still hasnt sorted it but that damp start might be worth trying yourself pal give it a go just read the back of the can 1st.
 

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Sorry to hijack this thread but I also have an engine judder on a Corsa B 1.2 8V. It was very slight at first but got more and more violent as my journey went on just cruising down the motorway. Judder is also at idle and worse when accelerating.

The spark plugs were covered in soot, so I presume misfiring? :confused:The lambda sensor and HT leads have been replaced in the last year. It is a DIS. Could it be the MAF that has gone wrong? Though it does seem to run smoother with the lambda sensor disconnected :confused:
 

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Sorry to hijack this thread but I also have an engine judder on a Corsa B 1.2 8V. It was very slight at first but got more and more violent as my journey went on just cruising down the motorway. Judder is also at idle and worse when accelerating.

The spark plugs were covered in soot, so I presume misfiring? :confused:The lambda sensor and HT leads have been replaced in the last year. It is a DIS. Could it be the MAF that has gone wrong? Though it does seem to run smoother with the lambda sensor disconnected :confused:
It's not the same problem as the OP (by the sound of it) as it's happening to you on the move, rather than from pull-away.

If it was your coolant temp sensor, you'd be unlikely to experience any discomfort on the motorway, as the engine can handle the extra fuel.

If it was your MAF, I daresay you'd have mentioned an EM light by now...

If the plugs are covered in soot then it's something worse than a pear-shaped CTS, what state is your air filter in? If it's seriously overdue a change then that could conceivably make the combustion so rich that even motorway driving couldn't handle it.
 

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Sorry to hijack this thread but I also have an engine judder on a Corsa B 1.2 8V. It was very slight at first but got more and more violent as my journey went on just cruising down the motorway. Judder is also at idle and worse when accelerating.

The spark plugs were covered in soot, so I presume misfiring? :confused:The lambda sensor and HT leads have been replaced in the last year. It is a DIS. Could it be the MAF that has gone wrong? Though it does seem to run smoother with the lambda sensor disconnected :confused:
The 1.2 8v doesn't have a MAF. It uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (which is mounted on the rear bulkhead next to the expansion tank). They are usually very reliable, but easy to check with a multimeter. I'll PM you the procedure.

The DIS system is usually reliable, no moving parts, and fires two cylinders together (wasted spark system). It's rare for both sides to fail at once, usually you get 2 cylinders misfiring if one side of it goes.

As said - check the routine service items first, then check the MAP sensor. If the CTS is making it run rich the hot starts are usually an issue - you'd need to press the throttle to get it to fire. But they are cheap enough so no harm replacing it just to make sure.

(Don't forget the HT leads - old leads can cause weak sparks which will lead to sooty plugs)
 

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Cheers guys.

The CTS, lambda sensor, spark plugs and HT leads are all new less then 5000miles on them. So I am doubting it's them.

I presume it is either the DIS or an earth/connection in that system. I don't have a multimeter but I think I can borrow one from my work to check though. If not I might buy a new DIS.
 

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Sorry I sometimes get a bit carried away!

About 5000miles ago I brought a Lambda sensor off ebay. This is the state it is now...warped and evidently giving a terrible O2 reading! (It also is just a bit too big for a 22mm spanner... :/)



Replaced it with a Denso one, no more judders :D And for the record the air filter is clean :)

Thanks colin1 and taurus!
 

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About 5000miles ago I brought a Lambda sensor off eBay. This is the state it is now...warped and evidently giving a terrible O2reading!

It also is just a bit too big for a 22mm spanner...

Replaced it with a Denso one, no more judders
This thread should be the poster boy for the folly of buying eBay cheapos

Which just goes to show what terrible copies these items are - not even basic mechanical compliance; I bet you won't find a mechanic in the land with a 23mm spanner in his toolbox

Good to hear you're back on the road :thumbs_up:
 
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