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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The girlfriend has been having a few problems with her Corsa lately; occasional stuttering when accelerating and even when going along at a constant speed, engine check light intermittently coming on etc. She took it into the garage and they replaced the spark plugs (Which was bullshit as the old ones were fine, they just needed gapping) and ran a fuel system cleaner through it. We took it out last night and it seemed to have solved the problem. Fair enough.

She rang me this morning to tell me that it was back to it's old tricks while she was on her way to work. She also told me that it would cost her £100 next time if she had to take it back to the garage. Sod that. I'm going to have a go.

Most of my mechanical experience comes from bikes so i'm a little in the dark here, but I still roughly know what i'm doing. I'll check the gapping of the new plugs and i've been poking about the forums as well. I would guess two possible causes so far; EGR valve and dodgy 02 sensor. I can see (One of?) the 02 sensors as soon as I open the bonnet (Toward the left hand side of the engine) but I don't know whether Corsas have more than one. As for the EGR valve, I hear it's toward the back of the engine but I don't exactly know where. I don't suppose anyone has a picture of it's location or anything?

If anyone can think of any other possible causes i'll be glad to hear them too!

Cheers in advance!
 

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i would say check the air flow meter it is a common fault and disconnect it and drive it and see if this cures it if so then its the air flow meter
 

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i would say check the air flow meter it is a common fault and disconnect it and drive it and see if this cures it if so then its the air flow meter
Agreed. If the usual service items are in good order then hesitation on acceleration is often the AFM, hesitation on light throttle settings (ie constant speed) is often EGR.

You can disconnect the AFM which will force the ECU into limp home mode - the engine will run consistently but not at top performance. So if it drives better with the AFM disconnected you know why, and if it makes no difference then you know to look elsewhere.

If it is the AFM do not try cleaning it. There are 2 types, the Vxhall ones do not respond well to being cleaned. You will need a replacement and sadly you need to buy the genuine article, not a cheapo version. They cause a lot of problems.

Faulty Lambda sensors tend to cause random cutting out more than anything else.

Let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Agreed. If the usual service items are in good order then hesitation on acceleration is often the AFM, hesitation on light throttle settings (ie constant speed) is often EGR.

You can disconnect the AFM which will force the ECU into limp home mode - the engine will run consistently but not at top performance. So if it drives better with the AFM disconnected you know why, and if it makes no difference then you know to look elsewhere.

If it is the AFM do not try cleaning it. There are 2 types, the Vxhall ones do not respond well to being cleaned. You will need a replacement and sadly you need to buy the genuine article, not a cheapo version. They cause a lot of problems.

Faulty Lambda sensors tend to cause random cutting out more than anything else.

Let us know how you get on.
Ahh thankyou! Do I simply have to disconnect the wire, or will I have to remove the entire MAF itself?

Hopefully this'll sort it out. Thanks a lot guys!

Edit: Where do you guys go for parts. I had a look on fleabay and the only genuine Bosch MAF is about £75. Where's the best place to go for this sort of thing?
 

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Yes - to test the AFM just unclip the wire and tape it somewhere safe so it doesn't get damaged.

I buy my parts from a local trade motor factors. They will sell to the public as well as trade. It's always better to support your local guy as he will be there when you need advice or buy the wrong thing and need to take it back.
 
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