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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My Corsa has developed a strange fault - summary below...

It wont start, put key in starter, turn to step two and you get the dreaded F in the display. Solid spanner symbol.

The fuel gauge does not move at the second step but it certainly had at least half a tank of fuel.

When you turn to step 3 there is a low audible click (single) but nothing else happens.

All lights, windows, etc functioning and no dimming of display.

I have checked all fuses and found both 6 and 18 were blown (visually separated) - replaced them with working ones - problem still persisted.

Removed negative battery connector and left for 6 hrs - reattached and the fault (F) still remains.

Tried the pedal test with both Accel/Brake held down with key out, then turn to position two - sadly im getting no errors or blinking either.

I do have an opcom coming tomorrow so maybe I will get a fault code that way (hopefully).

Any ideas!!!??

Thanks very much in advance for any help!
 

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Sounds like the Immobilizer to me...have you got another key you try...battery sounds ok, could be starter motor...think you do need to do code test with OpCom....light shouldn't flash...Fred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like the Immobilizer to me...have you got another key you try...battery sounds ok, could be starter motor...think you do need to do code test with OpCom....light shouldn't flash...Fred.
Thanks for your reply,

Sadly only one key. Agreed, hopefully the codes will help.

Just strange the fuel gauge does not even move - though in answer to your question, there are no lights flashing on the dash display.
 

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Does the temperature gauge work? think the gauges might work off same fuse...another thought is the fuel gauge works from the sender unit in the tank, and that is part of the fuel pump...wonder if its connected...

Sorry i thought you said the was a light flashing on the dash....maybe the spanner light on, doesn't that mean the immobilizer is on all the time...? the immobilizer either cuts off the spark or the starter i cant remember which it is now...but i think if the light on the dash is on all the time i think the immobilizer is armed...Fred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does the temperature gauge work? think the gauges might work off same fuse...another thought is the fuel gauge works from the sender unit in the tank, and that is part of the fuel pump...wonder if its connected...

Sorry i thought you said the was a light flashing on the dash....maybe the spanner light on, doesn't that mean the immobilizer is on all the time...? the immobilizer either cuts off the spark or the starter i cant remember which it is now...but i think if the light on the dash is on all the time i think the immobilizer is armed...Fred.
Well all the lights are steady - I have no idea, could be the immobilizer - would that cause an "F" fault on the display though?

I will run the opcom which is due tomorrow and come back with some codes hopefully!
 

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No idea, the only time i have seen an F on the dash is on an easytronic automaic gearbox, think F means fault,,,think i would try OpCom on there see what you can find out...Fred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No idea, the only time i have seen an F on the dash is on an easytronic automaic gearbox, think F means fault,,,think i would try OpCom on there see what you can find out...Fred.
Well the two fuses I replaced (which were blown) for the ECU have now blown again.

I am assuming the ECU has a fault (££) - The opcom could not get a reading from the system - I synced with the device ok but it would not get communications working with the car.

Looks like its garage time...
 

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Yes looks like it, just one thing you could do, can you take the plugs off of the ecu and replace the fuses see if they still blow..may need ignition on, you haven't jumped any relays or anything have you..if you cross the wires over there it might blow fuses, i would put everything back to normal but unplug ecu plugs see if it still blows the fuses..Fred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes looks like it, just one thing you could do, can you take the plugs off of the ecu and replace the fuses see if they still blow..may need ignition on, you haven't jumped any relays or anything have you..if you cross the wires over there it might blow fuses, i would put everything back to normal but unplug ecu plugs see if it still blows the fuses..Fred.
Hi, thanks again for the replies.

No, have not jumped it at all. AA just been out - pretty much instantly knew the problem - the ECU has become soaked in water and is dead - his equipment could not communicate with it either.

Suggestions seem to be new ECU or send ECU for recondition. All expensive.

Thanks again for suggestions - going to try and get it in to a local garage and probably take the expensive medicine!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello Again,

A follow up - the ECU was sent away for repair but unfortunately it is beyond that - totally corroded and dead :(

After some time researching - I am thinking about buying a pre-reset ECU from Ebay and getting the software w/usb OPCOM (I bought a standard blutooth one before) and programming it.

I fortunately have the security code for the car and having watched some obligatory youtube videos - the process does not look that daunting.

The only question I have is that a lot of these ecu are marked as Z13DT ECU whilst my engine is Z13DTJ - I am hoping this is just a variant and it would work? Any help appreciated again!

Assuming its telling the truth and tech2 reset I think I might go for it over the proposed cost of circa £1000 from the garage/vauxhall!!!

Thanks!
 

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Hi there i cant really help you much there, i would have thought you would have to have the right ecu for the car and i think you need the immobilizer key and thing that goes on the column and have to program it with OpCom, there are some U tube clips on that..i have never done one...from Fred.

 
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