All Corsa Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having problems with my Daughter’s Corsa and wondered if anybody can help - point me in the right direction?

Car is a Corsa 1.3 CDTI, 2008, Manual 54k miles.

Last Thursday cut out in traffic and would not crank torestart. All dash lights on, all other electrical equipment appears towork.

Returned 8 hours later and restarted. Drove 3 miles and cutout again. Towed 2 miles towards home and restarted on key. Drove another2 miles and cut out again. Towed home and has not started since.

I have checked all fuses under bonnet and obviousconnections.

Symptoms; –

1.All electrics apart from engine appear to work
2.Dash lights all coming on as usual
3.Warning light with car and spanner in onconstant with other dash lights
4.There is a letter “F” above speedo reading
5.Engine will not crank from key
6.Fuel pump not priming

It is like the immobiliser is preventing car from running orstarting, but book says if fault with immobiliser warning light with keyflashes rather being on constant.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
885 Posts
Welcome to the Forum.
This sounds nasty!
My immediate thought is that the engine seized (due to overheating??) I hope that I am wrong about this, as the repair would be expensive.
My reasoning for this, is that as the engine cooled down, it was able to start and run until it overheated again.
Another possibility is that (maybe due to a failed head gasket), you have suffered a 'hydraulic lock', meaning that coolant has entered at least one cylinder and prevents the engine from turning over - in honesty, this condition is more likely to happen when the engine is STANDING rather than when it is running.
With a hydraulic lock, you will be able to turn the engine BACKWARDS (for part of a revolution, at least) - You could try this by putting the car in, say third gear and pushing it BACKWARDS.
Another little check to (hopefully) eliminate the above conditions - Switch on the headlights and operate the starter, if the lights go very dim, it MAY be due to the engine not being able to turn (It could, of course also be due to a flat battery - much cheaper to fix!)
If you have a voltmeter or multimeter, set it to 'volts' and connect it across the battery terminals - meter should read over 11.5 volts.
With the meter still connected, operate the starter, if the battery is in reasonable condition, the meter will read at least 9.5 volts.

It's a bit of a pain to get at, and if you do the following, you need to take care that you don't get caught up in revolving parts:
With the ignition turned 'off' (so that the engine can't start), bridge the small starter motor terminal to the main (battery) terminal - If the engine turns over at that, then the problem is electrical.
If you would care to try the above, let us know what results you get and we will see if we can come up with a more accurate diagnosis of your problem.

Regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,480 Posts
Well you have to go back to basics here, apprarently the battey lead from battery to starter gives trouble, they have a join in that goes to the alternator, if you can i would get a multimeter, put it on about 20 volts DC, put it across the battery to start with, should be a minimum of 12.4 volts, try to crank it, it should go down to about 11 volts, if it doesn't go down a bit the starter isn't taking current,,,if it goes down to about 3 or 6 you have a battery problem, you can do voltage drop tests from positive battery to positive starter lead, try to crank engine, shouldn't be about about .4 of a volt, do same on negative battery lead to engine block, try cranking, meter should read no more that .2 of a volt...outside those limits shows high resistance or bad connection...when you have done all that remove one of the spark plugs lay it on the head put lead on crank it over and look for a spark..if no spark investigate ign system, then check for fuel...undo pipe and crank it over see if fuel comes out...are all the fuses ok..if the fuel wont prime when you turn ign on could be the pump, the pump should throw fuel out the pipe going to the fuel rail with ignition on for 2 seconds, then when cranking...i could tell you a ton more but try that first, you can make the pump run by, bypassing the relay with a jump lead...use correct 2 terminals...from Fred i essex.

Having problems with my Daughter's Corsa and wondered if anybody can help - point me in the right direction?

Car is a Corsa 1.3 CDTI, 2008, Manual 54k miles.

Last Thursday cut out in traffic and would not crank torestart. All dash lights on, all other electrical equipment appears towork.

Returned 8 hours later and restarted. Drove 3 miles and cutout again. Towed 2 miles towards home and restarted on key. Drove another2 miles and cut out again. Towed home and has not started since.

I have checked all fuses under bonnet and obviousconnections.

Symptoms; -

1.All electrics apart from engine appear to work
2.Dash lights all coming on as usual
3.Warning light with car and spanner in onconstant with other dash lights
4.There is a letter "F" above speedo reading
5.Engine will not crank from key
6.Fuel pump not priming

It is like the immobiliser is preventing car from running orstarting, but book says if fault with immobiliser warning light with keyflashes rather being on constant.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top