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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently started having an Engine management light coming on my 1.0 litre vauxhall corsa b.

It normally happens when the accelerator is fully depressed and generally in about 3rd gear. It will go away again once I've backed off.

I have had a couple of problems with the car recently which included a leaking heat exchanger and radiator and both have recently been replaced.

I have also had a problem with the car not starting when hot which after reading around the forum led me to a problem with the coolant temperature sensor so I replaced that but it didn't solve the problem with the hot starts or the EML light.

I have also reset the ECU since all this work and this has not resolved the problem.

I attempted to do a paper clip trick to get the error code but my car does not have one of the pins that need bridging and I also read some where on the forum to use the MFD to read it out but that just showed me my speed not anything about the error code.

I hope I have provided enough information and I am know it's two problems but I thought they may very well be related so thought I'd ask both in one...

Thank you in advance.

Ashley
 

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Start with the basics - has the car been recently and properly serviced? Are the plugs and filters in good clean condition?

Secondly, you have said that the eml comes on - but not said what symptoms you are getting in terms of the drive. When you accelarate in 3rd and the light comes on - does the engine hesitate or misfire?

It is possible, maybe probable, that the two problems are either linked, or may be due to the same cause.

When you try to do a hot start I assume the engine turning is over but not firing? (Rather than simply not turning over at all.) If so, what happens if you floor the throttle for a few seconds whilst cranking over?

And how long do you have to leave it when hot before it will fire up?

Sorry to ask a load of questions - but the more information the better chance of identifying the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No no ask away any information that might lead to a solution I am happy to give.

The filters are in good condition but I haven't checked the plugs, I will do so when it is light.

When the eml comes on car sort of jerks, loosing power for less than a second and repeats like a second later and continues like that (I usally back of after the second time or so which causes it to stop) I am not sure which that'd be but that's the feeling of the car.

The engine is turning over but doesn't catch and hence does not start. If I floor the throttle for a about 15 seconds the car will start.

If the car is restarted straight away it'll be fine, leave it for 3 minutes and it won't start and after about 30 minutes I'd say it would be fine but that last number is just an estimate.
 

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The hot starting issue does sound very much like the coolant temp sensor - so I'm not surprised you thought to change that. It would have been my first thing to do with those symptoms. Just check that the connection to it is clean and sound.

When you took the old one out did coolant leak out? It should have done - it just possible there might be a blockage preventing the sensor getting water to it and therefore under-reading. If water leaked out when you changed it then obviously it would seem the water passage is clear.

The jerking on accelaration, coupled with the eml coming on - if it was me I'd be trying a new air flow meter. They do go wrong quite frequently and the main symptom is hesitation when accelarating. Don't go buying a top brand one, the general feedback is that they don't last any longer than the cheap ones off ebay. It is pot luck - some last for ages, others go regularly.

Because they have a habit of going wrong, and on the 12v engine you often can't do the paper clip test, it's worth having a spare one just in case. So it's worth buying one anyway. Have a look on ebay - don't go paying some of the daft prices some places want for them.

It is possible the afm is also messing up the hot start - it doesn't usually have that effect though. But if it were me I'd have first tried the coolant sensor as you have done - and then the afm.

Hmmm - just one thought - forgive me asking, but are you sure you changed the coolant temp sensor, not the coolant temp sender. I've known guys get them mixed up before - changed the sender unit for the temp gauge and then wondered why it still won't start when hot. The temp sender is a small nut with a single wire connected to it. The sensor is a bigger unit (19mm) with a dual wiring connector. (Sorry if you've done that the right way round - but it's worth checking from past experience.)
 
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