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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello folks, first post here and guess what, I'm here for advice :) .

I've just bought a 1999 Corsa B GLS 1.0L and it ain't all that. Basically came down to lack of funds and being a bit of a numpty with cars (bikes usually more my thing). I shall list my issues and questions for each one, hope you can help me. Car is very clean looking and has 76k on it.

1) It pulls to the left. Took it to tyre place for tracking and (I know you know what I'm gonna say, I googled before I came here), the wheel spins to the left when car is up on the ramp with front wheels off the ground. So that's EPS knackered, right? I took fuse 14 out and it corrects it but is unacceptably heavy. First question is - the sensor fix described in Rob's sticky, that only work for Corsa C? Second question - I see I can get hold of refurbed column/rack HERE - can this be fitted easily, say without dropping out engine? I'm unlikely to do this kind of thing myself (too numpty), but how much in labour cost if I buy the part?

2) The clutch may be going. There's a new clutch cable in it, but even if I adjust it all the way up the thread the biting point is vague and near the bottom. The accelerator is very stiff and it does the judder thing somewhat, particularly going 1st to 2nd and the whole thing is quite tiresome to drive. If I decide I want a new clutch, how big a job is that on one of these cars? Lotsa labour again?

3) Engine sounds dead tappety. Can get that done too. But also that belt next to the engine is quite noisy as well (is that belt the timing belt or fan belt? That's how much of a numpty I am). Do these noises indicate something that makes you want to tell me to scrap it 'cos it's on its way out, or is it normal wear and tear time-to-get-it-done type stuff?

I'm asking all this because, for its age, it's such a nice clean car and there's lots about it I like. I have until August for its MOT, and I suspect it's just the EPS issue that will fail it as things stand. I don't have much spare cash but I can slowly fix things between now and then. But - I don't want to spend cash on the EPS thing if I can't improve the responsiveness in the pedals or obviously if the engine is about to wreck.

WHat do you think folks? Thx very much for replies :)
 

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The accelerator is very stiff and it does the judder thing somewhat, particularly going 1st to 2nd and the whole thing is quite tiresome to drive. If I decide I want a new clutch, how big a job is that on one of these cars? Lotsa labour again?

3) Engine sounds dead tappety. Can get that done too. But also that belt next to the engine is quite noisy as well (is that belt the timing belt or fan belt? That's how much of a numpty I am). Do these noises indicate something that makes you want to tell me to scrap it 'cos it's on its way out, or is it normal wear and tear time-to-get-it-done type stuff?
Firstly, :welcome: :)
For point 2, I would check the mass air flow sensor before you jump in buying a new clutch as the MAF sensor is common to go on corsas. Does it lose power sometimes when pulling out at junctions or roundabouts?

For point 3, it could be pretty much anything - iirc timing chains are used on corsas not belts, and from my experience at that mileage it could be something like the end case gasket. Does it go through a lot of coolant/water? And check the oil filler cap for a mayo like substance.
 

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I had the steering problem with my corsa b with epas, i found a walkthrough on how to fix on google took me about 30 minutes to sort
 

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The steering issue has been covered above.

The clutch cable - have a look through the tutorial section and adjust the cable as per the guide there. See how it is after that. It doesn't sound like it's adjusted right - but if it's biting well and doesn't slip then the plate is probably OK for the time being.

Juddering - very common with them. Check the oil level of course, sometimes running them about halfway between the marks can help. Without seeing the car it's impossible to know how bad it is, they do tend to judder a bit due to the characteristics of the engine until you get used to them.

Tappety noise - they are a timing chain by the way. Do the usual metal bar test to track down noises. The hydraulic valve lifters can be noisy if the oil feed isn't kept clean (lots of oils changes rather than using a flush). The timing chains get noisy if oil changes have been left too long. Or even things like the alternator bearings can make odd noises.

Though they get noisy the chains do not break as often as other engines. They can and do go of course, but not that frequently. If it's a cheap runabout you might want to just put up with it for the time being, or at least until it's passed its next MOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK - so I've ordered a £30 MAF sensor off eBay. I know the cheapies aren't recommended but for time being that's what I'm going to have to use due to lack of funds and the fact that, tonight while driving it up to 60ish in 5th I was getting weird power fades and the engine light came on. Further googles support Ellie's suggestion based on what's going on so I've done that, see how things shape up when I fit it and decide what to do next.

The oil is clean and I haven't had it long enough to see if consumes coolant (the temperature is fine). Will keep eye on it, and the oil levels.

I shall do the EPS sensor adjustment thing as well then, thx chaps. Hopefully if that works out and the MAF thing, then I'll give it a proper engine service and I'll actually have a not bad car woo hoo. Fingers crossed. Will wait for the weather to warm up next week first though brr.

Oh, I have one more question - put my old Pioneer stereo in it earlier. I've never swapped out a car stereo in my life. Got it plugged in OK - but whenever I switch the power off the ignition it loses all its presets and I have to retune. It never used to do that in the Ka it came from. I'm guessing i needs a power supply from the battery. Will I find that connector in back of the stereo cavity somewhere? What's it look like?

Many thx for all your replies, very much appreciated :) .
 

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Was no need to rush jnto buying a MAF sensor. Could easily have tested yours for free.

Swap red and yellow cables around for memory on stereo.
 
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Just unplug the MAF (the EML will come on of course but ignore it) if it drives more consistently with the MAF unplugged it's the MAF at fault. If not it's something else.

The problem with cheap MAFs is that sometimes they simply don't work from new so you can assume the MAF is good when in fact it's still the cause of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just unplug the MAF (the EML will come on of course but ignore it) if it drives more consistently with the MAF unplugged it's the MAF at fault. If not it's something else.

The problem with cheap MAFs is that sometimes they simply don't work from new so you can assume the MAF is good when in fact it's still the cause of the problem.
I'll check that thx :)
 

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If it is any consolation, the poor running symptoms you describe - heasitation upon acceleration, power drop off and eml at 3000 rpm are exactly what I had on a 2000 1.2 (same induction & engine management as 1.0) and the MAF was the culprit. I swapped it for a £25 one from e-bay and running is now much improved. The unplugging of the MAF tip is a good one. That's what I did to identify the problem.

Oh, and if you ever get the error codes read from your car there will be one which accuses the O2 sensor of being ill. This is most likely due to the MAF giving an incorrect mixture not the O2 sensor itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hello folks, Thx so much for replies. I went in the end for just cleaning the MAF sensor with contact cleaner. Can now achieve 80 (slowly :D) and climbing steep hill (slowly :D ) without engine light coming on, so I guess that's it, any other issues are of the physical type. Question : the ECU only logs errors if EML comes on, yes? I believe I shall disconnect battery to clear log, watch for more lights, and then plug in for diagnostic if I do.

Another question : Opcom doesn't work on my model (1999 1.0 12v) I believe. ALDL required if I've understood this right. Anyone know an affordable tool if I ever decide to get one? Sod paying a mechanic 50 quid for 2 mins and a button press.

Shall be attempting the steering sensor tomorrow.
 
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