[andy_ireland]

X10XE Corsa 1.0ltr 1999.
My corsa dont reach anywhere near normal temperature as I am driving along when I have stopped for a while with engine running the gauge will got to normal temperature or above and then I can hear the radiator fan kick in but when I set off again temp gauge goes right down again.

Apart from the obvious that someone has taken the thermostat out altogether (I dont know for certain because I havent had the thermostat housing apart) is there anything else that could be causing the problem? - the engine seems to be running fine, no misfiring or mucking about and cruises nice along 60mph. any ideas appreciated. If i find its just that someone has removed the thermostat its OK to leave it removed isnt it it wont cause much harm wont it like that?

 

[taurus]

Most Corsa temp gauges tend to read slightly low. If the 'stat has been removed, or jammed open (which how they usually fail) then the engine will take ages to warm up.

Best way to check is to start from cold and put your hand on the pipe running to the radiator. It ought to stay cool for a while, then you ought to feel a sudden increase in temp. as the 'stat opens.

If there's no noticeable increase in temp, and it just gets warmer very slowly, then there's a problem.

But to be honest I suspect yours is just doing what most Corsas do - read low most of the time.

 

[youngsezer]

what is normal temp? i think mine reads high

 

[taurus]

If you look at the guage on most them (B models) they have 90 degrees near the bottom end of the gauge. Now most gauges start at 80, 90 being midway, 100 being hot. So the needle sits in the middle of the gauge. On the Corsa it sits to the left, so it looks low - but the temp is actually at around 90 degrees which is what it should be.

If that makes sense?

 

[youngsezer]

makes sense to me but mine always sits just below the 100 mark?

 

[andy_ireland]

If you look at the guage on most them (B models) they have 90 degrees near the bottom end of the gauge. Now most gauges start at 80, 90 being midway, 100 being hot. So the needle sits in the middle of the gauge. On the Corsa it sits to the left, so it looks low - but the temp is actually at around 90 degrees which is what it should be.

If that makes sense?

ah yeah it makes sense now to me - of course i was thinking it was too low as it wasnt sitting in the 'middle' of the gauge :thumbs_up:

 

[andy_ireland]

makes sense to me but mine always sits just below the 100 mark?

I am thinking either wrong/faulty thermostat fitted or radiator fan coming in too late or blockage in system or waterpump not circulating properly - could I be right, just a thought

 

[youngsezer]

well the thermostat isnt very old and was replaced by me so i know its right, the fan comes in just after 100 so cant be that, could possibly be connected to the water pump and my coolant has been leaking intermittantly for the last 6 months or so

 

[andy_ireland]

well the thermostat isnt very old and was replaced by me so i know its right, the fan comes in just after 100 so cant be that, could possibly be connected to the water pump and my coolant has been leaking intermittantly for the last 6 months or so

hope u get it sorted out - I think me personally would have the engine running cooler than on the hot side, I would b worried that it was going to overheat somewhere out and about

 

[taurus]

makes sense to me but mine always sits just below the 100 mark?

Shouldn't do that unless you spend a lot of time in heavy traffic. It may be a restriction in the coolant flow, or an airlock, or a partially blocked rad.

Or even that the gauge sender or gauge itself is inaccurate.

 

[Vegas]

Should be between 90 and 100 unless sitting in traffic. The fan will the intercept around 100 ( depends on model) .

I would agree, most likely culprit would be airlock, which may or may not relate to your existing coolant problem.

 

[taurus]

Should be between 90 and 100 unless sitting in traffic. The fan will the intercept around 100 ( depends on model) .

I would agree, most likely culprit would be airlock, which may or may not relate to your existing coolant problem.

Hmm - hadn't picked up on that thread. You mentioned water pump - if the coolant isn't replaced regularly the vanes on the pump can literally corrode to nothing, so there's nothing pumping the coolant round. There was someone on here a few weeks ago, took his pump out - basically just a bare spindle was all that was left of it.

 

[rocksta]

also if your pump is old the bearing goes I replaced mine last month when i did the cam belt and if you moved the bearing the fins didnt spin so i just had my coolant sitting there.
Also i dont like the idea of fans kicking in at 100. I would rather them kick in at about 96-98; 100 is pushing it and i hate sitting in traffic as my car does heat up very quickly.
Also my car sits around 93-94

 

[youngsezer]

ok i'll look into this, i have just replaced my dials so will be interesting to see where it sits now, whether the dial is faulty or not,

i'll stop hijacking now i do have a thread about my coolant so anyone is welcome to comment further in there, really need these problems sorted

 

[andy_ireland]

also if your pump is old the bearing goes I replaced mine last month when i did the cam belt and if you moved the bearing the fins didnt spin so i just had my coolant sitting there.
Also I dont like the idea of fans kicking in at 100. I would rather them kick in at about 96-98; 100 is pushing it and i hate sitting in traffic as my car does heat up very quickly.
Also my car sits around 93-94

dya know what especially the summer is coming up I think I would do a little mod with that rad fan and run a positive (when engine switched on) wire to that rad fan and have it constantly on when driving and when caught up in traffic.

Or you could go to plumbing/diy shop buy what is called a central heating 'pipe stat' and wire that in and adjust it to the temperature you want the fan to automatically kick in. Saying that though the pipe stat would be rated at 240v 13amp so i am not sure what the amp of the coolant fan is, it might burn out the switch, but then i suppose you could always wire in a 12v relay to stop it doing that.

I had an escort years ago wich ran very hot, tried changing thermostat and bleeding and waterpump was ok rad not blocked so i just ran a positive to the fan and a switch on the dash and switched it on when in heavy traffic and it kept the gauge between cool and mid way.

 

[Danny]

If it's not overheating then leave it.
You'll use more fuel and damage the engine if you run it too cool.

 

[andy_ireland]

If it's not overheating then leave it.
You'll use more fuel and damage the engine if you run it too cool.

you have a point I suppose, as well if its running hot it can burn off all that mayo inside the oil cap as well

 

[Rob]

100-110 is fine as the system is pressurized, and pressurized water boils at a higher temp.

 

[rocksta]

100-110 is fine as the system is pressurized, and pressurized water boils at a higher temp.

Yeah but i still dont like it ^^ I would rather it sit closer to 90 then 100.
If it gets anywhere close to 100 i put my heaters on and the temp drops very fast. I dont mind it as long as my windows are all open

 

[andy_ireland]

Yeah but i still dont like it ^^ I would rather it sit closer to 90 then 100.
If it gets anywhere close to 100 i put my heaters on and the temp drops very fast. I dont mind it as long as my windows are all open

reminds me of an old escort I had once - no fun especially in the summer!