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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All.

Thanks for the input last time.

Another problem i would appreciate some help with.

Recently changed HG and now the biatch wont start.

Getting no spark from plugs nor hear the fuel pump running on second key position.

We dont know the real reason the HG went, so although we have changed the HG, we could be facing the original problem.

Someone else suggested Crank pos sensor for both - does this make sense???

fuses seem ok and gave the relay a jolly old tap whilst turning but nada!

all help appreciated.
 

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The fuel pump runs briefly when you first turn the key - then switches off until the engine is cranking over, then the crankshaft sensor tells the ECU to switch on the fuel pump relay.

You won't hear the pump running when the key is at No.2 position, it will only run on cranking.

No sparks usually means the camshaft sensor, or a wiring issue (assuming the coilpack is good of course.)
 

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What I am saying is that the crank sensor won't trigger the fuel pump until the engine is turning over. You say no fuel pump running on position 2 - well that's how it's meant to be.

How did you set the timing up? If the phase disc isn't right that will throw the cam sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well just to make sure, after your last thread, i took off the cam cover once more and turned the engine on the starter until luckily it was near TDC, then turn the crankshaft by hand until tdc marks aligned

i was able to postion the phase disc perfectly as well as insert cam locking tool no problem.

(I didn't do the lower locking tool but have already done this twice now already)

still no fuel in cylinders or spark.

Should i try the crankshaft sensor?
 

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Cheers - probably not that relevant but I find that when you line up the crank pulley TDC marks and then use the crank locking tool you actually have to turn the crank quite a few degrees before it's actually on TDC - the marks line up a few degrees before TDC. But if you've done it that way before without issues then fine...

Fuel...... you said before the fuel pump wasn't running when the key is at No.2 position, which is usual - the crankshaft sensor needs to detect the engine turning before it triggers the fuel pump relay. But now you say no fuel in the cylinders after cranking, which is clearly a different kettle of fish.

You can remotely trigger the fuel pump if you've got Opcom - which is a useful check.

Otherwise:
1. Leave it for a couple of hours to depressurise the fuel system, or press the valve on the rail to release the pressure.

2. Turn the key to No.2 but do not crank the engine over. Then press the valve on the fuel rail. It ought to have given a priming run so there should be fuel pressure present. If not tell us.

3. Then switch off the ignition (because you've depressurised the system), turn ignition on and crank the engine - then press the valve on the fuel rail and see if fuel pressure is present. Tell us the result.

4. Remove spark plug(s) and check if they are dry or wet.

That determines if the priming pump is running, if cranking pump is running, and if there's pressure at the rail on cranking but the plugs are dry, whether the injector relay is running.


Sparks - yes, cam sensor is worth checking.


If no sparks & no fuel I'd check the electrics, ECU earth, engine earths, connectors, etc - unusual for both to pack in if they were good beforehand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, thanks again.

no fuel coming out in all operations as you described.
As i still had no spark, i did a spark test on all of the cylinders...bad news

as well as no spark in all....as i looked in the cylinders while the plugs were out, no 2 and 4 were moist and number 3 is soaked (about 3mm) of water in the bottom. NOT FUEL

What's gone wrong...?
 

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When you done the spark test did you get any spark and was there any fuel in the line?
 
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