[foxfaustinus]

Hi,

Engine cuts out when I press the clutch and break to stop.

Only happens in the first few minutes of driving and the battery warning light comes on when it happens.

Doesn't happen every time only once every few days.

It only started happening when the car wouldn't recognise key immobilizer. Took it to a garage and they reprogrammed the ECU codes (or something like that - I only remember ECU and codes being mentioned.

I have since taken it back to the garage for an MOT and service and asked if they could try and sort out the engine cutting out.

Garage said they tried the fault codes and couldn't find any problems and they didn't know of any other way to try and diagnose the problem.

After looking around on the internet I suspect the ECU as people have had a similar problem and said the ECU was the source.

Is the ECU something that is easy to replace?

Is there a case for arguing the garage who reprogrammed the ECU should carry out the work as the problem only started after they done work on the car?

Any further advice on possible sources of the problem?

Thanks.

 

[syko6288]

Try reseting the ecu .... leave the negative terminal off the batrery over night see if that gers rid of stored engine codes

 

[taurus]

Depends on the model / year. Most of them disconnecting the battery won't reset the ECU.

It's no good guessing on possible cause without knowing the model / year. Some have idle control valves, others do it via the ECU controlling the throttle body. So without more information it's anyone's guess.

 

[foxfaustinus]

Its a 1.4 SXi 16v 3-Door - 2007 (07).

49,000 on the clock.

I've also noticed the engine isn't running as smoothly as it should when accelerating from a standing start. The engine goes through slight jerky movements until it gets up to about 50 mph.

I realise there is probably a few things that could be the issue but I'm reluctant to hand it over to a mechanic without narrowing it down a bit or if there's something I could try myself first.

Adam

 

[foxfaustinus]

I should point out that the dealer has looked at the car and checked the fault codes and couldn't find any problem.

I've been told by one mechanic this means I have a big problem and he wouldn't even look at it as he didn't see the point if the dealer couldn't find the problem.

As you can tell i'm not experienced in self repair or particularly knowledgeable with cars.

I'm thinking of just going big early and using the car in a part-exchange deal before it completely gives way - does this sound sensible or is it pushing the panic button too early?

 

[taurus]

Ok - well a 2007 won't clear codes by disconnecting the battery, you need a reader for that. If you've got a laptop buy yourself Opcom (about £30) it will do most things a dealer can do, and often more than a generic reader at an independent workshop.

Don't panic at a mechanic saying it can't be mended. The problem is that workshops have to charge by the hour for labour and tracking down a problem that isn't shown as a fault code can take time. People don't want to pay for that time so workshops try not to take on that kind of work.

It's probably best to find a good garage and stick with them, they get to know you and the car and everyone is better off. However, since that seems not to be the case it's worth looking around to see if there is a workshop where they know the Corsa engine better. Personally I'd begin by cleaning the throttle body - it's often beneficial on that year since the idle is controlled by the ECU working the throttle body. If the TB gets mucky and sticky (and they do) then the ECU can't work the idle right.

That might also account for the issue on acceleration - since it's a fly-by-wire system. Do one thing at a time and see what difference it makes.

The other thing of course is to make sure its basic service items are all in good order.

 

[Walksall]

Don't let anyone try to sell you a new ECU, these things are rarely the cause of a problem (thankfully, as they are VERY expensive!)
As already said, there are plenty of faults which don't (can't) throw up a fault code. It is a case of working through the system, if you replace components, start with the cheap/simple ones.
I would never advise selling on the car in order to get rid of the fault, for a start, no one would want to pay much for it, also there is nothing to say that your next car will be much better.
Ask around your area for a reliable garage - One who will do a good job of work without trying to pull the wool over your eyes and sell you additional, un-required work, there are some about BUT there are also some cowboys.

Regards.