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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, As some of you may have seen in my project thread, in the new year and when my bank balance is healthy enough, im going to be buying a c20xe to strip and rebuild myself. As i have never done any real engine work like this before, im looking for a list of tools and other bits and pieces you can think of that ill need during the process so i can get them ready for when i start the project. im think along the lines of valve spring compressors etc. the only real tools i have is a good socket set with all the torx bits and stuff and a torque wrench.

any ideas??

P.s
i already have a big hammer for when i pissed off with it :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
For starters....

Engine stand (not essential, but i wouldn't want to rebuild any engine without one because how easy it makes things)

3/8 drive torque wrench

I'll try and post more when i feel more awake :palm:
haha, cheers man.
will be getting the big stuff (engine crane and stand) as you say to make the job easier :thumbs_up:
already have a 3/8 drive torque wrench with extensions etc
 

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Dr frankenstein
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8,272 Posts
piston compression tool, valve paste and tool, stiff brush (for scrubbing away the crap), mdf board (normally almost perfectly flat) and wet and dry paper (when stuck on the mdf it helps restore flanges and mounting faces, if you get me). will think of more when I have a think of what I have in my kit.
 

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Pro Spanner Wielder
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13,501 Posts
You'll need an angle gauge.

Also a decent breaker bar comes in useful.

I find a good quality set rachet ring spanners can reach some bits you can't get a socket onto.

The other thing that I wouldn't do without is a good quality headtorch.

Big tin of Plusgas!

Incidentally - http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C266564
I've never seen the point of those angle guages?? You torque it up, then it says 90 degree angle tighten, just turn it 90*, why do you need a guage to tell you where 90 is? Or is it just for people who dont know where 90* is? Lol.

Not like it has to be mm accurate on that stage, turning it through anywhere from 80-100* will be more than accurate enough. Well, i think so anyway

*EDIT* - also, could have been a stunner of a cav there in that link, shame it's been adandoned for so long, probably rotten through :(

*EDIT AGAIN* - Also, im planning to do exactly this, but on a LET next year, so i'll be keeping my eye on this thread for any suggestions that i dont already have in my tool collection.
 

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For 90 or 45 degrees I use a chalk line on the bolt. For 60 degrees I prefer to use a gauge.

It's a matter of choice, and I'll be the first to admit that I'm a bit anal about doing things by the book. But on the other hand do it right = do it once.
 

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torx sockets, allen keys, cambelt locking tool (draper on ebay) and a decent socket set.


and a cavalier/calibra/astra mk2 haynes
 
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