Hi new to this forum and corsa world...my car just wont start, it was running fine then it wont start. Turn over, sparks, petrol but thats all. No engine MGt light unless you tow it to try and start it then i get P0100 which i know is MAF or engine not starting...Have changed crank shaft senor, cleaned earth to ECU. Any ideas? would the imboliser do anything like this as I can lock car on key or with fob and indicators flash. but I can still open the boot with no alarm going off. But surly the imboliser would cut the spark out? Any suggestions welcome..please help...thanks buy the way its a 1.0L 2001 corsa
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When you say it has sparks and petrol - have you checked the plugs are sparking and that petrol is actually reaching the cylinders? (ie are the plugs wet after cranking?)
A dud MAF usually won't prevent it starting - and anyway you can just unplug the MAF to force the ECU to use a default setting which will make it run.
A dud MAF usually won't prevent it starting - and anyway you can just unplug the MAF to force the ECU to use a default setting which will make it run.
yes it is sparking when I hold the coil pack with plugs in against the cylinder head and turn it over, also strong smell of petrol, Also had plugs in and when I take them out they are wet. Seams really strange that with a spark and petrol i dont get anything. Could the spark not be strong enough?
Ok - thanks for that information. It's always best to start with the simple things.
There's a number of possibilities - some obvious, some less so (eg a blocked exhaust will cause a sudden refusal to fire up.)
Two things to check - first check the battery is fully charged. It may turn over well but the ignition system is very intolerant of even a slight drop in voltage. I've seen a few crank over fine but refuse to fire. Give them the battery a charge and they fire first time.
Second - it's an early C model - which were prone to a bad connection behind the dashboard. It usually begins with random intermittent instrument failure, but it can cause a no start situation. Sometimes a firm press on the instrument cluster makes contact temporarily - if this is the problem you will need to remove the instrument cluster and make firm the connection at the back of it.
If the battery is fully charged then I'd look at the second suggestion because quite a lot of early C models suffer this problem.
There's a number of possibilities - some obvious, some less so (eg a blocked exhaust will cause a sudden refusal to fire up.)
Two things to check - first check the battery is fully charged. It may turn over well but the ignition system is very intolerant of even a slight drop in voltage. I've seen a few crank over fine but refuse to fire. Give them the battery a charge and they fire first time.
Second - it's an early C model - which were prone to a bad connection behind the dashboard. It usually begins with random intermittent instrument failure, but it can cause a no start situation. Sometimes a firm press on the instrument cluster makes contact temporarily - if this is the problem you will need to remove the instrument cluster and make firm the connection at the back of it.
If the battery is fully charged then I'd look at the second suggestion because quite a lot of early C models suffer this problem.
Sparks
You say that the plugs are wet with petrol and that you have sparks.
Obviously, things like lack of compression and timing could cause the problems, but as it just happened as you describe, this is extremely unlikely to be the cause of the problem.
What colour is the spark? If it is blue/white, that is fine, but if it is yellow/orange or even red, then it won't fire up the mixture. If it is the latter, it COULD be the module that is at fault, but you should still check all of the connections, and as said above, make sure that the battery is fully charged.
If you have a voltmeter or multi-meter, that could help in your search for voltage/high resistance, talking of which, do remember that, even with high resistance in a circuit, you can still get full battery voltage showing, what the resistance does, is cut down the current (Amps), which is just as vital as volts!
Regards.
You say that the plugs are wet with petrol and that you have sparks.
Obviously, things like lack of compression and timing could cause the problems, but as it just happened as you describe, this is extremely unlikely to be the cause of the problem.
What colour is the spark? If it is blue/white, that is fine, but if it is yellow/orange or even red, then it won't fire up the mixture. If it is the latter, it COULD be the module that is at fault, but you should still check all of the connections, and as said above, make sure that the battery is fully charged.
If you have a voltmeter or multi-meter, that could help in your search for voltage/high resistance, talking of which, do remember that, even with high resistance in a circuit, you can still get full battery voltage showing, what the resistance does, is cut down the current (Amps), which is just as vital as volts!
Regards.
Hi thanks for the advice, I have tried the connections, fully charged battery and now have found someone with the same engine but a year newer. Swapped there coil pack for mine but still no joy. They have said I can try bits from my car on theres to see if I can find the fault. If I swap the ECU will I have an immobliser problem? what else could I try swapping over...apart from the engine....
Swapping the ECU is possible, but you'd need to keep the key chips and transponder with the ECU so it's fiddly. But if you've got sparks and petrol then I doubt it's the ECU itself.Hi thanks for the advice, I have tried the connections, fully charged battery and now have found someone with the same engine but a year newer. Swapped there coil pack for mine but still no joy. They have said I can try bits from my car on theres to see if I can find the fault. If I swap the ECU will I have an immobliser problem? what else could I try swapping over...apart from the engine....
If this was an engine with a timing belt I'd say check the timing, but on the chain driven engine there are virtually no marks to check the timing with. If you put your location there may be someone nearby with a timing kit for it.
Right think i might be getting somewhere...my code checker didnt pick up any fault codes but using the pedles I get the following codes 1612,1615,1616 which i think relate to immobiliser issues? any advice..as i mentioned before my mate has the same car if i swap over the ecu and key barrel bit with the code reader in it would it work? I would plan on fitting mine onto his car to try it. I presume his wouldnt de code when i take it off.
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