[CorsaEdi]

erm new problem i got the mfd to work (ish) basicly previously i plugged it in and it stayed on while keys where not in ignition so i un pplugged it and left it, now today i plugged it back in turned car on then off which made the mfd go off as it should then turned car back n and it came on but now my problem is that when i just set off home from work when car was on it was on fine but evry time i used something electrical e.g windscreen wipers, high beam, flash main beam, rear window de-mister etc etc the mfd would flash every time something was used but with the windscreen wipers it only flashed when the wipers moved but with the back window de-mister it flashed constant i have enough dodgy flashing bulbs in my dash dont need another one lol is there a cure for my mfd or is it totally ****ed cheers.

 

[AJ]

Sounds like the alternator isnt giving out enough amps to carry everything, which is surprising because the MFD uses hardly anything.

Change the bulbs to LED's and you wont have that problem mate.

A quick test for the alternator:

Park in front of a wall with your headlights on and the engine running.
Turn the engine off and the headlights should dim.
If they dim then the alternator is giving out enough amps for the headlights and shouldnt be a problem with it.

 

[CorsaEdi]

Yeah my alternator is sound mate (lights go dim when turned car is turned off) it's just getting annoying now ;/

 

[Krazeedude]

Hey, I'm after fitting a flashing red led that only comes on when the ignition isn't. I have a relay I could use, but it's rather bulky (ideally it'd be placed on the blank patch of plastic just above the hazard switch). I read somewhere that if you connect the positive to a constant live and the negative to the switched live, it can use the switched live as an earth when nothings going through it, and it won't blow. If this is the case, I could just splice it onto the Red and Black wires coming from the MFD and save myself an awful lot of faffing. Can anyone give any advice before I take a poking stick to my car?
- Thanks :]

 

[AJ]

Would not advise putting 12v through an anode and a cathode, get yourself the relay and wire the ignition to pin A and eart to pin, ignition to common, NC to anode, cathode to earth.

OR

Get yourself a real alarm and post a new help thread

 

[dragon2309]

Although it will work perfectly fine like that with no ill side effects. Voltage is just potential difference between two sources. You could stick 120v into the anode if you wanted, as long as there's 120v on the cathode too nothing would happen. Thats just physics.

 

[Krazeedude]

AJ, it's a small silver Corsa, factory fitted immobiliser, never left anywhere dodgy, £80 on an alarm, having just spent £2300 on insurance isn't really an option.

Dragon 2309, that is kinda what I was thinking, and it is designed for 12V use.

Right, I shall get out my screwdriver and a drill... *mwahahahaha*

 

[Krazeedude]

There is a speed display function, which comes on after pressing the buttons, BUT, what is the point? Why is the feature there? I can't seem to find a reason for it :/

 

[AJ]

It was basically just a self diagnosis test for the display to ensure everything worked correctly. From studying the schematics, I concluded that the original headunit will increase in volume slightly the faster you travelled for things such as traffic announcements, similar to how some satnavs operate.

 

[Krazeedude]

It was basically just a self diagnosis test for the display to ensure everything worked correctly. From studying the schematics, I concluded that the original headunit will increase in volume slightly the faster you travelled for things such as traffic announcements, similar to how some satnavs operate.

Now THAT is a rather clever design, thanks Hate to thread-jack, but have you E-mailed my Dad yet?

 

[AJ]

Not yet mate, had my mind on other things lately. I havent forgotten about it, just not got round to it.
Send me a PM with his email address again and basically what it is he wants to know and I'll get it sorted :thumbs_up:
Cheers mate

 

[Cookieace]

I take it this is the same for the Corsa B, I have the same problem, head unit is on but then there is no date on the MFD.

So just snip/pull out the red/grey wire and the job is a gooden, even in a Corsa B?

 

[AJ]

PM'ed you but simple answer is 'Yes'

 

[Krazeedude]

I take it this is the same for the Corsa B, I have the same problem, head unit is on but then there is no date on the MFD.

So just snip/pull out the red/grey wire and the job is a gooden, even in a Corsa B?

This was about the corsa b, and thats exactly what i did, cut and insulate, and hide.

 

[Cookieace]

My bad i swear it said for corsa c, same concept either way though

 

[krolow]

Could someone explain to me what the purpose of the Illumination wire is and what is is connected to, the reason i am wondering is because i disconnected wire 7 and 8 from my Display, what i then ended up with was a display that would show the time and date but the bulbs in my spedo would not light up any more, i did a test and connected wire 7 and 8 together and the result was that my lights in the spedometer would work again but only if the radio was on ofc since the 12v was from the radio unit.

I own a Corsa B from 2000 that is left side driven if that makes any difference

6 - GREY/GREEN - Headlights - Supplies 12v when the headlights are on
7 - GREY/BLACK - Illumination wire
8 - RED/GREY - Stock Head Unit control - 12v when stock headunit is on. Date disappears so station name can be displayed in its place

 

[dragon2309]

What were you trying to do in the first place? Make the date stay on? Why did you cut anything other than the red/grey one? Lol... Put the others back and stop connecting random things to toher random things... All you need to do is cut the red/grey wire.

 

[krolow]

haha the problem i had was that firstly i wanted the date to stay on, hence why i disconnected the red/ grey wire (number 8)
And secondly i had the problem with the display flickering when i was driving, the reason to that i allso disconected the grey/black wire (number 7)

Disconnecting number 8 did what it was supposed to but romiving number 7 illumination only partly solved it's problem

Edit: Went out to the car and tried to reconnect it all and start from scratch, as of right now everything is connected like they are supposed to except that i have disconnected wire number 7 and 8. The display is working correctly and all and the date is showing up till the point where i use the lighningswich (the one with the built in dimmer in it), when use it the whole display dies,
The only way i see around this is reconnecting headlights (6) to where number 7 is supposed to be, thus completely bypassing the whole dimmer.
As i understand if from reading the electrical schematics is that (6) is 12v in, and 7 is 12v minus the resistance that the dimmer is causing. If that is the case i would just need another 12v to the original Ilumination wire, to carry it along to the spedometer. This is because the illumination wire goes from the dimmer to both the speedometer and to the clock separately, and since the dimmer appears to be completely dead now this is the only way i can that i can think of to get the speedometer lights to work again.

Any of you got some ideas or am i actually right for once?

 

[AJ]

The illumination wire goes from the dimmer to headunit then the MFD

Why not just put the wire back?

 

[krolow]

The illumination wire goes from the dimmer to headunit then the MFD

Why not just put the wire back?

As i suspected then, the reason not to put it back is because im dimmer is broken so i used to get flickering but now it's totally dead. Anyway solved my problem completely by bypasing the dimmer until i can get a new one,i now have 12 volts on both sides of it and has bypased the diming of the dispal as i did not want that fuction anyway. Geting a working dimmer is something that is plans of the future since the car got busted in an accdient today...alm:
Anyway bunch of thanks for the help to get it back to working tho:thumbs_up: